Cuisine de la Rome antique

L’été est la saison pour vivre à l’antique, en fréquentant les manifestations sur les sites antiques  :
En Suisse, à Augst,  la plus ancienne ville romaine établie sur le Rhin,à 10km de Bâle 25 et 26 août
aux Arelate, journées romaines d’Arles du 19 au 26 Août
Des Augustales, journées romaines au musées Villa Loupian le 28-29 juillet

Destinées au grand plublic, ces manifestations restent dans une rigueur historique, reconstituent sans se priver du ludique et participatif.

Pour qui s’est passionné pour « Rome », a grandi avec « ils sont fous ces romains! » dans Astérix et Obélix, travaille le latin ou est captivé par les documentaires archéologiques, ces invitations à la vie romaine s’avèrement sérieusement intéressantes : voir autrement que dans les films un campement gaulois ou romain, défiler des légionnaires, combattre des gladiateurs, ou cuisiner romain, pour se rapprocher de l’objet de C10VIN.

Aux Augustales de la Villa Loupian à Loupian, que j’ai visité cette année, l’organisation comme le niveau pédagogique des animations étaient remarquable. Les camps romains et gaulois, installés sur l’esplanade fauchée devant la villa étaient parcourus par des néo-romains en tunique et toge, stola et palla.
Reconstitution commentée de « cena » romain, présentation des plantes et des herbes historiques, démonstration de cuisine dans le camp  romain et « taberna romana », taverne romaine tenue par la spécialiste de la cuisine romaine historique.


 cuisineromaineloupian-mix.jpg

Dimanche Augustales, journées romaines au musées Villa Loupian, 27 juillet 2012

Installée depuis des années à Saint Remy de Provence, restitue la cuisine romaine sur le site de Glanum. Elle travaille avec le musée d’Arles et des se déplace sur des événements. C’était une occasion rare de goûter à cette cuisine faite par une spécialiste, un plaisir de constater que les essais que j’avais fait s’en rapprochaient assez.
Le registre de cuisine est méditerranéen et de saison, assez rustique . Les extravagants et célèbres plats des talons de chameaux farcis et autres orgiaques rafinement sont notamment plus difficiles à reconstituer et finalement pas plus représentative de la nourriture courante du goût de l’époque qu’un menu de -feu ‘El Bulli- à la notre.

Mémoires des saveurs antiques

Les préparations savoureuses que j’ai goutées évoquent à la fois  la cuisine de campagne italienne ou grecque et la cuisine du Magreb, au final elles s’avèrent plus familières qu’on pourrait imaginer.
Céréales, herbes, fromages, viandes et poissons, sont préparés avec des condiments et aromates.
Le doux (miel) intervient en touceh comme un épice les plats sont relevé, salés (avec le « garum », condiment de poisson très prisé, retrouvé dans des amphores de bateaux coulés dans le Rhône voisin), aromatique (avec des herbes fraiches, dont nombre que nous avons oubliées telle la lièvre ou l’hysope), piquant (avec le poivre venu d’Orient, mais pas de piment, plante du Nouveau-Monde inconnue), acidulé (du vinaigre et du sumac, pas encore de citron).

 quelques plats de La taberna Romana. 
matza, galettes fourées,
poulet sauce Petroselinium (persil et noisette)

Pain de Caton et Esicica
Dans un pain romain, saucisses « maison » aux pignons et baies de myrte, sauce Palladium (moutarde au miel) et salade,

formule repas
saucisses maison, lentilles aux poireaux confits, concombre à l’oleogarum, pain de Caton, gâteau à la cannelle

boissons
Myrtites, vin rouge aromatisé aux baies de myrte
Absintites, vin blanc aromatisé à l’absinthe

douceur
Melo pepone, melon et pastèque à la menthe

Recette du sel aux épices romain
Je suis revenue avec du sel aux épices romain, préparé par la légion84 d’Avignon :
Délicieux sur des poissons grillés ou du fromage de chèvre frais, ce sel aromatisé se prépare ainsi, suivant les instructions d’Apicius
Voici une recette Sel aux épices  du site  « 8 eme légion », largement documenté en cuisine  :
 » Le Sel aux épices à de nombreux usages : Sel aux épices bon pour la digestion, pour faire aller le ventre, et qui empêche toutes les maladies, la peste et les refroidissements ; mais il est aussi bien plus agréable qu’on ne l’attendrait. Une livre de sel ordinaire grillé, 3 onces de poivre blanc, 2 de gingembre, 1 ½ d’ajouan, 1 ½ de thym, 1 ½ de graine de céleri (si l’on ne veut pas de la graine de céleri, on met 3 onces de graine de persil), 3 d’origan, 1 ½ de graines de roquette, 3 de poivre noir, 1 de safran, 2 d’hysope de Crète, 2 de feuille de Nard, 2 de persil et 2 d’aneth. »

Recette de  la galette du légionnaire

En revenant d’une telle manifestation, quoi de mieux que de mettre en pratique ?
Parfaitement adaptée à cette saison de barbecue, voici la restitution de la « galette du légionnaire ».
C’était la « barre de céréale » de l’époque, nutritif et facile à transporter, facile et rapide à faire, modulable suivant les ingrédients disponible. Peut-être fait avec des enfants, des scouts, des randonneurs ou des légionnaires, peut-être fait avec un équipement des plus sommaires, un saladier et et un feu de bois suffisent.

Moudre des céréales … ou mélanger des farines et des flocons de céréales pour un aspect « rustique »  – pour moi ; farine complète, farine de pois chiche et flocons d’avoine
Mélanger avec un peu d’eau pour obtenir une pâte fermer , y ajouter une pincée de sel, du miel et des fruits séchés
Faire des galettes de 10 cm de diamètre environ, 1 cm d’épaisseur, fariner
Cuire sur un feu de bois : soit directement sur les braises, soit – comme j’ai fait pour éviter de manger trop de cendre – sur une plaque métallique ou une feuille de papier aluminium perforée.
Surveiller en en retournant, environ une dizaine de minutes, vérifiez la cuisson au nez : vous devez sentir une odeur de pain chaud qui a traversé les siècles…

A la recherche du vin romain
Pour l’accord vin, plusieurs options :
Faire soi-même ses vins marinés aux herbes et plantes
Aller se fournir au  Mas des Tourelles, qui fait les vendanges romaines 
Enquêter sur les endroits qui vinifient en amphore, tel le  clos Romain sur les hauteurs de Cabrière, dans l’Hérault .

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